Kashubian Switzerland on bike paths - cycling through Kashubia

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Kashubia: a challenge for the cycling tourist

This rather demanding image of Kashubia for cycling tourists is caused by several factors. A significant factor is the proximity of Gdańsk and the entire Tricity area, to which residents of Kashubia commute daily for work and from which Tricity residents come to Kashubia for cycling recreation on weekends. Another crucial factor is the very varied terrain of the Kashubian Lake District, where the often narrow and winding roads make it difficult to safely overtake a cyclist and sometimes result in limited visibility. Lastly, the human factor - excessive speed and a frequent lack of respect for cyclists further reduce the comfort of riding on public roads.

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Start and finish of the cycling loop in Kashubia

The start and end of the safest possible cycling loop in Kashubia are in Kartuzy. This is one of the three cities (the others being Gdańsk and Kościerzyna) that have been competing for the title of the "capital of Kashubia" on various levels for years, but it is probably Kartuzy that is closest to this title. Gdańsk is too cosmopolitan to fulfill such a role, and Kościerzyna... perhaps too transient and airy to retain the spirit of Kashubian identity. Meanwhile, in Kartuzy, in the market square, in the streets of the city center, in the Kashubian Museum, and around the Collegiate Church of Kartuzy, there is probably more of that Kashubian atmosphere. Kartuzy is also closer to Chmielno, the Kółko Raduńskie lakes, and the Mirachowskie Forests, where my Kashubian route leads.

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Bicycle paths, pedestrian-cycling paths, pedestrian roads...

Here's a brief explanation. In this text, I often write about "bicycle paths," although, in practice, under the law, the signs indicate bike paths, various pedestrian-cycling paths, and pedestrian roads where cycling is allowed. I consciously take administrative shortcuts and sometimes simplify this issue. From our cycling perspective, it is simply about ensuring a space that will be separated from car traffic in any effective way. How the designer named it, what idea (or lack thereof) they had for the administrative classification of pedestrian-cycling infrastructure, matters less to us. Right?

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From Kartuzy to Sianowo Leśne

The first kilometers lead through the urban cycling infrastructure in Kartuzy. It won't be fireworks - sometimes the pedestrian-cycling path will be made from the existing sidewalk, laid with cobblestones instead of asphalt, but it will show the city's care for cyclists. From the center, near the recently renovated train station, the route heads west towards the Kashubian Forests and the Bilowo Forestry. This forest clearing is a cross-country skiing route in winter, a tradition in Kartuzy for decades. A forest shortcut brings us to the bicycle path leading from Kartuzy to Sierakowice, though we will only go as far as Łapalice. Nearby, on the edge of the village, is the famous unfinished "castle" belonging to a furniture entrepreneur from Gdańsk - worth a visit and return. It is worth knowing that the Kartuska Przyrodnicza Rowerowa Route runs parallel.

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Bicycle path from Prokowo to Sianowo Leśne

In Łapalice, our route turns north and follows a pedestrian-cycling path made of cobblestones towards the road from Prokowo to Sianowo. On this road, there is a fairly wide bicycle path, one of the most crucial cycling paths in Kashubia. At the time of writing, the section from Mokre Łąki towards Sianowo ends in the middle of the forest. However, it is already known that soon the earlier section connecting Mokre Łąki with Prokowo and the continuation of the forest section to Sianowo Leśne will be completed. Thus, the dangerous, forested, winding, and uphill road will have a safe and comfortable passage for cyclists along its entire length. Perhaps the new sections will have a wider verge, providing a greater sense of security when cars pass by.

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From Sianowo Leśne to Mirachowo

From Sianowo Leśne through Sianowo and Strysza Buda to Mirachowo, we ride on a road that might be the most challenging part of this loop. If I had to decide which part needs cycling infrastructure investment first, I would point to this one. There are straight sections where local speedsters press the gas pedal and winding turns where visibility decreases. Adding to this, the glacially sculpted Kashubian landscape means that after a pleasant descent, you often have to pedal hard uphill. However, these efforts are sweetened by the well-known Sanctuary of Our Lady Queen of Kashubia in Sianowo and the Kashubian Miniature Park in Strysza Buda. Both towns have short cycling paths, but they don't change much in the context of the entire roughly 10-kilometer stretch.

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From Mirachowo to Kamienica Królewska

Right after Mirachowo, the route escapes from car traffic. Although its rough, about a kilometer-long beginning is not promising, right after that starts one of the best, most cyclist-friendly sections of public roads in Kashubia - about 8 kilometers of road that runs through the Mirachowskie Forests towards Kamienica Królewska. Access to this road is unrestricted, it is essentially another ordinary road in Kashubia. However, due to the aforementioned terrible start from Mirachowo, it is rarely chosen by local drivers, and for those from afar, it lies away from important travel destinations. Lush forest surroundings and rarely encountered cars make this section one of our absolute favorites. Nearby are two nature reserves by serene forest lakes - Lubygość and Szczelina Lechicka, which are also worth including in your cycling itinerary.

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From Kamienica Królewska to Sierakowice

In Kamienica Królewska, we continue to feel comfortable and safe, though the next form of cycling infrastructure is somewhat surprising. The bike path to Sierakowice runs along a two-way road that is only one lane wide. When two cars meet from opposite directions, one is forced to drive onto the bike path. This is not an ideal solution under Polish law, but cyclists feel relatively safe here, having this piece of asphalt mostly to themselves. This segment also offers the fantastic attraction of a truly spectacular view of Kamienieckie Lake. It provides over 4 kilometers of cycling comfort.

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The youngest wooden church in Pomerania

Sierakowice is one of the centers of Kashubia, one of the most vibrant hubs of Kashubian Switzerland, and the westernmost of them. It is worth visiting the pleasantly arranged John Paul II Park, located in the center of the village. And you must see the Church of St. Martin of Tours, standing nearby. It is the last of the wooden churches in Pomerania, built at the beginning of the 19th century. Interestingly, until 2010 it stood next to a larger brick church in the center of the village, from which it was moved and renovated in its current location. The missing, previously dismantled part was also supplemented using original wood.

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From Sierakowice to Gowidlino

In Sierakowice, we still ride on bike paths, although their quality may leave something to be desired at times. Sometimes it's cobblestones, sometimes the path runs too close to the road, and then there are the awful, unnecessary yellow barriers that stretch for hundreds of meters, marring the Kashubian landscape. Fortunately, the bike path alongside them is wide and smooth, often veering away from the road by several meters - perhaps the best arrangement along the entire route. In this way, we traverse the section from Sierakowice through Puzdrowo to Gowidlino.

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From Gowidlino to Sulęczyno

In Gowidlino, beautifully situated at the northern end of Gowidlino Lake, begins the best bike path on the cycling route around Kashubian Switzerland. Asphalted, wide, quite consistent, and sparsely decorated with gray barriers, it stretches for 13 kilometers. If it weren't for those occasionally unnecessary barriers, it could be considered a model to follow. Its appeal is also enhanced by the surroundings. Fewer tourists reach here because it lies outside the direct influence of Gdańsk and the Tricity. It's quiet, peaceful, spacious. This pleasant section closes our loop from the west and ends in its southwestern corner - in Sulęczyno.

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From Sulęczyno to Stężyca

Unfortunately, there is no infrastructure from Sulęczyno to Stężyca that would allow for a convenient bike trail, but fortunately it is possible to escape to parallel, fairly quiet gravel and asphalt roads. They are the route of the inter-municipal Sulęczyno-Stężyca bike trail, almost 15 kilometers long, which will be the best choice in this area. An attraction worth seeing in this area will be the stone circles in Węsiory - a well-known and popular place that is definitely worth visiting, deviating a bit from the indicated route.

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Kółko Raduńskie - the most beautiful in Kashubia

Stężyca is already part of Kółko Raduńskie - a Kashubian classic, a series of interconnected lakes, without which no visit to Kashubian Switzerland can be complete. If only we as a nation could respect the landscape more, Kółko Raduńskie could shine in European catalogs of the most beautiful vacation destinations, not yielding in picturesque beauty to lakes lying somewhere at the foot of the Alps in Italy or Switzerland. Unfortunately, chaotic development and spatial disorder mean that Kashubian villages sometimes mar Kółko Raduńskie with random investments instead of adding local charm. Nevertheless, a bike ride along the lakes of Kółko Raduńskie is a must, a point of honor for the cycling tourist.

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From Stężyca to Wygoda Łączyńska

The popularity of Kółko Raduńskie does not translate into cycling comfort - quite the opposite. Heavy car traffic on some sections makes me recommend riding only along the western, calmer part of the loop, around Raduńskie Dolne and Raduńskie Górne lakes, where it's easy to find both isolated bike paths and quiet public roads that make the ride enjoyable. From Stężyca to Borucino, and then from Borucino to Wygoda Łączyńska, there is a separate pedestrian and cyclist path, providing a safe space for cyclists. This is particularly useful because, although the road appears to run outside major routes, many cars seem to travel here at speeds of around 100 km/h. And near our favorite Chmielno, a new road was being built, so there is hope that between Borzestowska Huta and Chmielno, another bike path will soon appear.

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Chmielno: ideal for a few days of stationary stay

Chmielno is a town full of Kashubian charm, attracting tourists with its location, rich Kashubian culture, and opportunities for active recreation. Its picturesque setting is due to the four lakes it is situated by, offering excellent conditions for water sports, fishing, and relaxation. Chmielno is also known for traditional Kashubian ceramics, with the Neclów Museum of Kashubian Ceramics located here. This village is not only an interesting stop on the route but also a great place to spend a few days stationary, exploring the area in a slow travel style. During our cycling tour of Kashubia, Chmielno is a short, dead-end detour while riding around Kółko Raduńskie.

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From Chmielno to Stężyca

Heading south, we return along the western shores of Raduńskie Dolne and Raduńskie Górne lakes, and the road differs from the one taken on the opposite side. The first section, through the villages of Lampa and Sznurki, is one of the most beautiful on the entire route. In several places, we have the opportunity to admire views from high natural viewpoints - another one of my favorite areas in Kashubian Switzerland. Note the light traffic on the road running through Sznurki and Lampa - thanks to its low transit value and somewhat "dead-end" nature. However, not the entire stretch is so comfortable - after Sznurki, gravel appears, good but not perfect, and then, to Zgorzałe, unfortunately, a rather busy but very short road. From Zgorzałe to Stężyca, there is again a pleasant, asphalt bike path.

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From Stężyca to Wieżyca

Our cycling loop around Kashubia does not return to Stężyca itself but earlier, after passing a group of barrows in the forest near Uniradze, it enters another good cycling feature. It is a bike path about 11 kilometers long from Stężyca to the parking lot at Wieżyca (with breaks in Gołubie and Szymbark). Riding on a separated pedestrian-cycling path significantly enhances comfort and safety during the long uphill ride to Wieżyca, with breaks in Gołubie and Szymbark. At the end, there is a large parking lot before a few hundred meters of walking to the Wieżyca observation tower - it's worth planning some time to climb up and admire the Kashubian panoramas.

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From Ostrzyce to Goręczyno

The next few kilometers lead downhill from the highest point of the Polish Lowlands to Ostrzyckie Lake, to Ostrzyce. About halfway through the forest section by the lake, we come across another, though short, bike path that leads us to Ostrzyce. This is one of the places around Kółko Raduńskie where you will encounter the most tourists in the summer, which, combined with narrow, winding roads, makes me not recommend riding along the loop to the north - to Brodnica Dolna and Brodnica Górna, Ręboszewo, and finally Chmielno. Instead, my proposal for cycling in Kashubia along bike paths turns towards Goręczyno and... at the end of Ostrzyce, it hits another excellent bike path. It's wide, smooth, and would be perfect if not for... unnecessary barriers. However, this impression is quickly erased by the cyclists traveling to and from Ostrzyce, both visiting tourists and locals. Clearly, the bike path from Ostrzyce to Goręczyno has hit the spot for everyone.

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From Goręczyno to Kartuzy

From Goręczyno to Kartuzy, to close our circular cycling route around Kashubian Switzerland, we continue on bike paths (or pedestrian-cycling paths). The one to Kiełpino (unfortunately cobblestone) is somewhat surprising because the surroundings no longer resemble the Kashubia we have become accustomed to over the previous 100 kilometers. The dozens, hundreds of built single-family homes around remind more of the suburbs of Gdańsk than rural development. But the later bike path, from Kiełpino to Kartuzy, already offers a bit of forest pleasure - first on an asphalt bike path, then on a rather specific forest trail.

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144 kilometers of cycling loop around Kashubia

The entire loop is 144 kilometers long. And how much of it consists of bike paths? Let's go through it: Kartuzy-Mokre Łąki 10 km, Mirachowo-Kamienica Królewska 8 km, Kamienica Królewska-Sierakowice 4 km, Sierakowice-Gowidlino 5 km, Gowidlino-Sulęczyno 13 km, Stężyca-Wygoda Łączyńska 10 km, Stężyca-Wieżyca 12 km, Ostrzyce 2 km, Ostrzyce-Goręczyno 2 km, Goręczyno-Kiełpino 4 km, and Kiełpino-Kartuzy 4 km. So, bike paths and the excellent public section in the Mirachowskie Forests total 74 km. So almost exactly half of the entire loop around Kashubian Switzerland. Fifty percent, is that little or a lot?

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The best way to get to Kashubia is by train

How to get to Kashubia, to Kashubian Switzerland? I always encourage taking the train first and foremost, as the most ecological and usually cheapest means of transport. To Kartuzy, after changing in Gdańsk, you can get there thanks to the convenient connections of the Pomeranian Metropolitan Railway, on a new railway line built a few years ago. You can also reach Kashubia from afar by car, which can be left for these 2-3 days of riding in the parking lot by the collegiate church in Kartuzy.