Szczecin Lagoon Cycle Route. Cycling West Pomerania

Image

Three hundred kilometers around Szczecin Lagoon

The official length of the full cycling loop around Szczecin Lagoon and Lake Dąbie is 296 kilometers. Of that distance, about 200 kilometers are thanks to West Pomerania, one of only three Polish regions that have and are implementing a program to build a network of tourist cycling routes. The remaining 100 kilometers run on the German side, offering some practical examples of how Germany develops its cycling tourism. Together, both parts create an excellent opportunity for a few active days of cycling in West Pomerania and neighboring Mecklenburg. And this doesn’t have to be just a summer cycling option – good train connections to various stages on the Polish side make it a solid base for planning year-round, one-day, or weekend activities.

Image

The Szczecin Lagoon Cycle Route forms a loop, and it’s best to start and finish in Szczecin due to the easy access from all over Poland by train, bus, or car. The route passes through Świnoujście, Międzyzdroje, and Wolin on the Polish side, and on the German side through Ahlbeck, Anklam, and Ueckermünde. Along the way, cyclists frequently encounter various bodies of water – from the Oder and its branches around Szczecin, the Świna River in Świnoujście, the Dziwna in Wolin, the Ina near Goleniów, Lake Dąbie – the fourth largest lake in Poland, and Szczecin Lagoon, which is shared by Poland and Germany, to the Baltic Sea, covering a short stretch of coast between Ahlbeck and Międzyzdroje. The constantly changing landscape, from river to lagoon to sea and back again, provides a delightful variety throughout the journey. This is one of those routes where boredom from the scenery is hard to come by. Ironically, the only stretch that might feel long is riding along the dikes by Szczecin Lagoon and Lake Dąbie, but these are also some of the most beautiful and natural scenes on the route – a treat for any cyclist.

Image

Gravel roads out of necessity, not preference

The waterside sections of the Szczecin Lagoon Cycle Route are among the most memorable and striking parts of the route. In total, about 40 kilometers of the route on the Polish, eastern side of Szczecin Lagoon and Lake Dąbie are covered with gravel. On the German side, a corresponding 10 kilometers of pleasant gravel paths run between Bugewitz and Anklam. Interestingly, gravel wasn’t the first choice for the route’s surface but was necessary due to the fragile structure of the dikes, which couldn't support more durable asphalt. It’s important to remember that gravel is always a second-choice surface in cycling tourism because maintaining optimal conditions is more challenging and expensive for local authorities. Cyclists traveling this route in spring 2024 will likely notice at least one spot where the dike and its gravel surface have been eroded by water, temporarily reinforced to prevent further damage.

Image

Szczecin Lagoon Cycle Route clockwise

Although the official website for the Szczecin Lagoon Cycle Route suggests traveling counterclockwise, we opted to go with the flow of the clock. We wanted to get the least exciting part of the route over with quickly and save the most picturesque views for the final two days of riding. In retrospect, I can say that this approach worked, as many cyclists we encountered were traveling the same way. Indeed, the somewhat monotonous stretch from Szczecin through Police (with an interesting stop at the old Luftwaffe fuel factory) to Trzebież passed quickly. By the end of the route, even when fatigue and rainy weather set in, we still enjoyed the natural scenery – around the Lagoon, Lake Dąbie, and even the Goleniów Forest and the short section along the Ina River.

Image

Leaving Szczecin is just as good as leaving Berlin

I was particularly impressed by the beginning of the route from Szczecin towards Germany. Right from the start, we were greeted by cycling-friendly amenities – from the distinctive building of the Mieczysław Karłowicz Philharmonic and the Monument to the Victims of December 1970, where we began our ride, we had access to advanced cycling infrastructure by Polish standards. The route soon leads onto John Paul II Avenue, with its convenient bike path cutting through green squares and plazas. Along the way, we passed a cheerful election rally for a local politician, and just a bit further on, we reached the dark green façade of the Szczecin City Hall, proudly displaying a large white and red flag on May 1st. Behind the city hall lies Jasne Błonia, where a large May Day celebration, including the Szczecin Market featuring vendors from across Poland, was in full swing. We couldn’t have asked for a better atmosphere to kick off our trip – Szczecin welcomed us with clean, lively, and friendly vibes, plus great cycling infrastructure.

Image

The pleasant ride out of Szczecin doesn’t end at Jasne Błonia. For several more kilometers, we cycled through scenic park and suburban landscapes, passing the striking amphitheater, the Summer Theater in Szczecin, with the popular artificial lake, Rusałka, in the background – a favorite relaxation spot for locals for almost 150 years. Nearby are also the botanical and dendrological gardens, followed by Syrenie Stawy – a natural area well-suited for forest recreation and relaxation. The suburban attractions end at the popular Głębokie swimming area, where we left the pleasant bike paths and pedestrian-bike routes for a less impressive cobblestone road toward Police. As I reflected, the last time I enjoyed such a smooth and pleasant ride out of a large city was in Berlin, on my way to see the cycling bridge in Siekierki.

Image

Cycling around the Nazi fuel factory

Just before reaching Police, we noticed a sign pointing to the “Skarb” historical museum – we immediately turned toward the ruins of the Nazi synthetic fuel factory, hidden in the forests near the town. Shortly after, we were listening to the museum staff, who gave us detailed instructions on how to efficiently tour the factory grounds. Most of the time we spent on a rather bumpy forest road, passing by several distinctive structures. The most striking is a tall, maroon-colored building – the coal mill, where coal was ground before the actual process of producing fuel that the Germans used in Luftwaffe aircraft. Almost directly across the road, you can visit the power plant hall, and over the next few hundred meters, you’ll find several more buildings, including a bunker that opens and closes the tour, where the museum is located, housing an exhibition of objects related to the factory. It’s quite an original and rather unexpected place to visit.

Image

Ruins of the Augustinian monastery by the route

We also stopped in the center of Police, only to confirm that it’s certainly not the most beautiful town on the Szczecin Lagoon Cycle Route, so we returned to the route. It was a good decision, as instead of riding through the town center, the route skirts the edges of Police on a new, though short, cycling path, soon joining the bike track towards Trzebież. I was still hoping for a striking view of the well-known chemical plants in Police, but that’s hard to achieve from the main road. Before we left Police, we visited the ruins of the Augustinian monastery in Police-Jasienica. The two ruined, one-story wings are a modest reminder of the monastery, thanks to which, in the 13th-14th century, a mill was built here, as well as sheep and pig farming, and even hop cultivation. Right next to it is the 13th-century Church of Saints Peter and Paul with a 19th-century tower.

Image

Fish bar with a waiter from MS Batory

The next town is the small Trzebież, where we planned a short break. We quickly spotted the modestly sized, but highly reputed, Zatoka fish bar, located right on the cycle route near the Trzebież marina. The delicious fish dishes here are outshined by Mr. Jan, the distinguished waiter who is clearly enjoying a second career here. As one Google Maps review stated, “you feel as if you’re not sitting in a portside tavern but traveling aboard the MS Batory.” Indeed, Mr. Jan’s dedication and manners made the long wait for food seem a bit shorter. It’s also worth noting that Zatoka offers ample parking for bikes right by the seating area – it’s perfect. And if demand is too high, there’s another fish restaurant nearby. Trzebież is definitely a great spot for an afternoon stop on the route.

Image

Alternative route through Nowe Warpno

Just before entering Germany, we veered off the official course of the Szczecin Lagoon Cycle Route and headed toward Nowe Warpno (Neuwarp), finishing the stretch on a good cycle path through the forest. If only there were a guaranteed, daily ferry connection to Altwarp on the German side, perhaps the main route would have been planned this way. The ferry, which in practice is a small German cutter, operates on select days of the week, only a few times a day, and on Saturdays only in the morning, while on Sundays only in the afternoon. Fortunately, the ferry schedule worked in our favor, and the trip was pleasant, accompanied by other cyclists, so we encourage you to try this alternative – it’s quite a nice way to add variety to your cycling activity.

Image

Before the short ferry ride, it’s worth taking a look around Nowe Warpno. The town is beautifully situated on a small peninsula, around which a pleasant promenade runs. It’s hard to imagine that in the Middle Ages, Nowe Warpno even competed with Szczecin, being an important Pomeranian maritime trade center. The picturesque location of Nowe Warpno on the peninsula eventually became a limitation to the development of a trading town, which shaped its current, very intimate atmosphere. On the way to the harbor, it’s worth stopping for a moment in front of the lovely half-timbered town hall and paying attention to the figure of the German painter Hans Hartig, known as the “virtuoso of Pomeranian landscapes.” Hartig painted dozens of scenes from Nowe Warpno, promoting the town in Berlin’s artistic circles at the beginning of the 20th century.

Image

A few good examples of cycling tourism

Cycling through Altwarp is not just an opportunity for a ferry ride and a stop for a German fish sandwich (Fischbrötchen) right by the port, but also a ride on a good cycle path toward Warsin. This is one of several excellent examples on the route of how Germany ensures safe cycling between towns. By building good bike paths along roads, they lay a strong foundation for cycling tourism, while also making it easier for local residents to commute between nearby villages. It’s hard to believe that in Poland, very few regions offer similar solutions. Fortunately, there are places where things are moving in the right direction – I’m pleased to see similar bike paths being built along more roads in places like Kashubian Switzerland!

Image

A town you can't miss

One town you definitely shouldn’t mindlessly pass by at this stage of the ride around Szczecin Lagoon is the charming Ueckermünde. The first sign of approaching the town is the city beach, from which a long cycling path lined with wooden sculptures leads to the center, ending at a small wooden drawbridge. Shortly after, we cross another drawbridge over the Uecker River and find ourselves in the well-kept historic center, with a cozy, intimate market square and the Pomeranian dukes’ castle located near the bridge. This can be a great destination for the first day of your journey, as well as a place where it's easy to find a meal and accommodation. The Pomeranian dukes’ castle in Ueckermünde is now home to the Haffmuseum, or Szczecin Lagoon Museum, which tells the story of the town and the region, showcasing artifacts and items from various historical periods.

Image

An extraordinary chapter in Ueckermünde’s history was written by its hospital, now a popular sanatorium, which already in the 19th century specialized in the treatment of mental illnesses. During the Nazi era, the Ueckermünde clinic was one of the places involved in Action T4, a program aimed at exterminating people with physical, mental, and intellectual disabilities. Throughout Germany, 70 to 100 thousand adults and about 5 thousand children died in various medical facilities as part of this program. Some of that number applies to the former psychiatric hospital in Ueckermünde. How far we’ve left those times behind is shown by our cheerful, smiling moments on the market square in Ueckermünde. And may it never change.

Image

Clear, well-marked cycling routes

I often say that German bicycle routes are the best in Europe when it comes to developing cycling tourism, and it’s an excellent model to follow. This picture shows one of the elements you encounter most often and which is fundamental to us while riding. These are German cycling signposts, which keep the same shape, color, and information scheme throughout the entire country. From the Oder to the Rhine, everywhere the top line always shows the nearest larger town, often a transport hub. The bottom one informs about the nearest town in general, and it's the best source to know exactly where you are at the moment. Distances are clearly marked, with no need for additional symbols like “km” to keep the message as clear as possible. An important part of the signpost is the small plates with the symbol and name of the cycling route that passes through here. During this trip, I was pleased to see, for the first time, a Polish touch among them – the Szczecin Lagoon Cycle Route, or Stettiner Haff Rundweg.

Image

One of the last wild rivers in Germany

Soon after Ueckermünde, we passed through the small village of Bugewitz, beyond which begins the most beautiful section of the German part of the route. These are partly asphalt and partly gravel roads through the Peene Valley Natural Park, or Naturpark Flusslandschaft Peenetal. The Peene River, or Piana, is called the “Amazon of the North” by the Germans because it remains one of the last undeveloped rivers in Germany. The Peene Valley stretches for about 80 kilometers from Lake Kummerow to the vicinity of Anklam, where it flows into the Peenestrom, the strait connecting Szczecin Lagoon with the Peene. The Peene basin, covering about 20,000 hectares, is one of the largest peatland areas in Central and Western Europe and is home to many important species of fish and birds.

Image

Anklam for shopping and accommodation along the route

Anklam didn’t impress us. The historic atmosphere of this former Hanseatic city was buried under the rubble of World War II. The city was bombed not only by the Americans in 1943 and 1944 but also at the end of the war, in April 1945, by the Luftwaffe itself, as one of only a few cities in Germany, in an attempt to destroy the remaining infrastructure before it could be taken over by the Soviet forces. Today, in the historic center, you can see St. Mary’s and St. Nicholas’ churches, as well as a few surviving buildings, including the over 30-meter-high Stone Gate, one of four in the old city walls. Anklam is also a place where it’s easy to find accommodation, a meal, and do some shopping, for example, for missing clothes or sports equipment. In addition to restaurants and pizzerias, there’s also a Chinese restaurant with a buffet behind the shopping center.

Image

Bike-friendly places in Germany

In Anklam, we also saw well-organized accommodation for cyclists and their bikes. Upon arrival and checking in at the Anklamer Hof hotel, located just a few dozen meters from the market square, we received a room key that also opened a special bike garage. This was located across the street, where you first enter a small courtyard, and then a room for bicycles. Here, you can safely store your bike, fix minor issues, and charge the battery. This is exactly what modern cycling tourists need. And it’s precisely such places that West Pomerania is looking for to become part of its network of bike-friendly places.

Image

A German aviation pioneer from Anklam

In the German town of Anklam, it's worth visiting the Otto Lilienthal Museum. Lilienthal was a German engineer, pilot, and the creator of 18 flying machine designs, through which he tried to mimic birds and their ability to move through the air. Thanks to his observations, Otto Lilienthal became the first person to take flight using a wing similar to a glider. At the museum in Anklam, you can see replicas of his "gliders," most of which he built together with his brother. How significant his contribution was to global aviation is evidenced by the fact that Berlin's now-closed Tegel Airport was named after him, and the experiences and experiments of Lilienthal were later used by the much more famous Wright brothers in building their first airplane.

Image

Examples of good cycling transport solutions

The next day, just outside of Anklam, I took a photo of another solution that perfectly illustrates the seriousness with which Germany and other European countries approach local cycling transport. It's a bicycle underpass beneath a railway line, which doesn’t serve any major transport route but exists solely for our cycling path, along which several popular cycling routes run. You can see many such spots and structures in countries like Germany or the Netherlands, designed to ensure the cyclist's safety by avoiding busy roads or, in this case, railway lines. This is one of the many reasons why we feel so comfortable cycling in Western Europe. It’s also one of the reasons why we eagerly follow marked cycling routes, which generally take advantage of the best available infrastructure in the area.

Image

The dead forest in the wild Peene Valley

Part of the Peene Valley Natural Park is the "dead forest," which we passed just before reaching the island of Usedom. Interestingly, this and the surrounding areas were drained and used by local farmers for hundreds of years, but after subsequent natural flooding at the end of the 20th century, a decision was made to return it to nature. Now you can observe the renaturation process – the flooded forest was first inhabited by a colony of several thousand cormorants, and even eagles built their nests there. Today, the "forest," likely damaged by the cormorants, is now home to seagulls. Unfortunately, this unique spot can only be observed from quite a distance, from the road connecting Anklam with towns on Usedom Island. For a slightly better view and to take in the wide panorama of the Peene Valley Natural Park, you can use a small observation tower where swallows have built their nests.

Image

Once the most modern railway bridge in Europe

Shortly after entering Usedom Island via the drawbridge in Zecherin, built in 1931, we reached the village of Karnin. This is where cyclists from the Kamp-Karnin ferry disembark, skipping Anklam and shortening the cycling loop around Szczecin Lagoon by several kilometers. It’s worth riding down the cobbled road toward the harbor to get a closer look at the remains of the old railway bridge, probably the most interesting engineering structure on the route. When it opened in 1933, the Karnin Bridge (Karniner Brücke) was the most modern railway bridge in Europe, connecting Germany with the island of Usedom. The remaining span was supposed to be dismantled in 1990, but it was saved by… kestrels, which had established a breeding colony on the span, halting the demolition. For several years now, a local association has been working to rebuild the bridge and the former railway line to Ahlbeck.

Image

What you see today is the structure of the highest span of the Karniner Brücke, which survived after the Germans blew up the bridge’s piers and the rest of the fixed spans to slow the advance of Soviet troops. If you look closely at the span, you can see that it’s a massive frame, inside which the lifted railway track span is hanging at its maximum height. Before the bridge was blown up, it was raised to this position to allow German ships to escape from Szczecin Lagoon after the other parts of the bridge were destroyed and sunk in the Peene waters. The same mechanisms were used here as in the huge ship lift at Niederfinow in Brandenburg, which we saw during a previous May weekend.

Image

The town of Usedom on Usedom Island

The "capital" of Usedom Island is the small town of Usedom, with its preserved historic layout, market square, and the towering St. Mary's Church. In the 13th century, this modest town was even one of the main residences of the Pomeranian dukes, who later moved to places like Szczecin. Today, one of the town’s attractions is the Tractor World Museum, which showcases dozens of tractors and agricultural machines, including a shiny red Porsche tractor produced by the famous company in the late 1950s. Note: don’t be misled by the museum’s surroundings – outside, there are some rather shabby agricultural machines on display, quite different from the well-maintained, polished, sometimes 100-year-old exhibits inside the small hall.

Image

the section on the German part of Usedom Island may seem unexciting on the map, but its final part will certainly get your heart racing. After Garz, the terrain changes significantly – two forest climbs await, followed by a golf course and the small resort town of Korswandt. Beyond that is another steep but short climb up the hills surrounding the former imperial spas of Ahlbeck, Heringsdorf, and Bansin. The pier in Ahlbeck is not only an architectural symbol of Usedom Island but also the oldest pier on the Baltic coast – it’s already 125 years old. This is the perfect area to take in the atmosphere, observe how the seaside space is organized, and note how visitors use it. Then, compare all these impressions when you reach Świnoujście and Międzyzdroje, asking yourself, “What went wrong?” that seaside tourism in Poland took such a different path.

Image

The longest seaside promenade in Europe?

The 12-kilometer pedestrian and cycling promenade connecting Bansin, Heringsdorf, Ahlbeck, and Świnoujście is often said to be the longest seaside promenade in Europe. Cyclists traveling this route are often on a multi-day journey around the Baltic Sea. Before the war, Ahlbeck was the second most popular resort on this part of the coast, after Kołobrzeg – those times are still reflected in the well-preserved spa architecture, the pier, and the over-100-year-old clock in front of it. To get a sense of this atmosphere, I encourage you to leave the official Szczecin Lagoon Cycle Route and take the EuroVelo 10 route around the Baltic Sea, which is known as Velo Baltica in West Pomerania.

Image

Sunset by Stawa Młyny in Świnoujście

Świnoujście is packed with tourists in summer, so if you plan to stay overnight and want to avoid paying higher-than-usual prices, it’s best to book far in advance. We managed to do this, finding an affordable place in a good location – we stayed at Willa Roma in the seaside part of Świnoujście, close to the promenade. In the evening, we went for a walk to see the city’s symbol, Stawa Młyny, at sunset. Unfortunately, low-hanging clouds disrupted the view, but the beach walk was still worth it. The promenade walk was another story – on one side, you have the summer vibe, and on the other, global hotel brands. I’d bet most cycling tourists would prefer to stay somewhere quieter. The loud, summer holiday atmosphere on the Polish coast is almost certainly not what the average cycling tourist is looking for.

Image

Still on a temporary route after Świnoujście

Before reaching Międzyzdroje, we enjoy a nearly 3-kilometer stretch along the sea, reminding me of the great moments from my ride last year along the entire Velo Baltica route, or EuroVelo 10, in West Pomerania. However, the earlier section of the route after Świnoujście is still running on a temporary, emergency path with a subpar surface – it’s not terrible, but the ride quality is noticeably lower compared to the rest of the route. This is due to ongoing restricted access around the Świnoujście gas terminal. Fortunately, there is talk of a new solution for cyclists soon – a new bike path to be built along Barlickiego Street by the city of Świnoujście.

Image

West Pomerania is doing great, too

While I praise Germany for its clear, well-marked routes, I must extend the same praise to Poland. The creators of the West Pomeranian cycle routes also take great care with information, and they do it in the most advanced way in Poland. In my autumn report from the Velo Baltica route, I was already impressed by the excellent maps and notices that West Pomerania creates on the fly in areas where passability is a problem or where the route is temporarily changed. West Pomerania also has its own cycling app, which is quite practical for navigation on routes, including the Szczecin Lagoon Cycle Route. And if you prefer printed help on the route, traditional smaller leaflets and guides for individual routes and their stages are available at information points in the towns of West Pomerania.

Image

Underground City worth a longer stop

In this area, the Szczecin Lagoon Cycle Route, like EuroVelo 10, passes right by the Underground City – a complex of bunkers beneath the Baltic dunes, built by the Germans during World War II. After the war, the bunkers were taken over by postwar Poland, expanded, and turned into a command center for a potential conflict with NATO. It’s an interesting place to visit, especially with an enthusiastic guide. However... the only available organized tour option lasts far too long for a cycling tourist, and it’s only available at certain times. A more practical option for cyclists would definitely be a 30-minute “on-demand” tour of the Underground City instead of the group tour, which in our case lasted about an hour and a half. And a supervised bike parking area would be great to make cyclists feel secure leaving their bikes while visiting this interesting attraction.

Image

An unusual road through Wolin National Park

After passing through the loud and not-so-cyclist-friendly Międzyzdroje, the Szczecin Lagoon Cycle Route takes a gentle uphill climb past the last buildings of the village of Wapnica and then briefly ascends into Wolin National Park. Along this section, it’s hard not to notice the road's unique design, called "2 minus 1," with the central part made of cobblestones. This design is intended to slow down passing cars and ensure safety and comfort for cyclists riding on the asphalt side lanes, which form two one-way bike paths. It’s a practical and aesthetic solution, especially in places like national parks. Brandenburg uses the same approach in the Uckermark district, on roads cutting through the Schorfheide-Chorin forest.

Image

The Slavs and Vikings Center on Wolińska Kępa

Another interesting spot along the route is the Slavs and Vikings Center, located on Wolińska Kępa Island, across the river from the center of Wolin. This site features a dozen or so wooden buildings that recreate the look and feel of early medieval Wolin from a thousand years ago, between the 9th and 11th centuries. Visitors can step inside to learn about the living conditions of early Slavs, with all the buildings equipped with replicas of old tools and everyday items similar to those used in ancient Wolin. Every summer, the Center hosts the Festival of Slavs and Vikings, attracting enthusiasts of this fascinating historical period.

Image

King Harald Bluetooth, Jomsborg, and the Vikings

An intriguing topic that often comes up when reading about the Slavs and Vikings Center is the actual location of Jomsborg, the legendary Viking stronghold frequently referenced by the Center. According to Viking sagas, Jomsborg was a large settlement near the mouth of the Oder River into the Baltic Sea. From there, the Vikings controlled and conquered Slavic lands. However, archaeological research, including that conducted by the Nazis in the 1930s to trace Scandinavian roots and Aryan origins, never pinpointed the location of Jomsborg. In 2023, the media reported that Szczecin archaeologist Wojciech Filipowiak announced a possible discovery of traces of Jomsborg at Hangman’s Hill, south of Wolin, near the recently opened impressive observation tower, which could also be a worthwhile stop along the route. A runestone in the town park commemorates the likely death of Denmark’s King Harald Bluetooth in Wolin, adding to the historical atmosphere of the area.

Image

The best of the Szczecin Lagoon Cycle Route

After Wolin, following a short stretch on quiet local roads and then a brief ride on a bike path that saves cyclists from deep sand, we once again find ourselves in open spaces near the waters of Szczecin Lagoon. Similar to the area near Anklam two days earlier, gravel roads on the flood embankments of the Lagoon guide us towards our destination. From here, all the way to Szczecin, you’ll ride one of the most scenic cycling routes in Poland – if you’ve come for peace, natural landscapes, and the joy of cycling, you’ll find it all around the next bends. Not the entire route is separated from car traffic – between a few villages, we encounter public roads, but these are the kinds of places that are sure to appeal to every cyclist.

Image

Bike-friendly places in West Pomerania

Our last night was spent at the Panorama Tavern and Guesthouse in Stepnica. This place reminded me again of the concept of Bike-Friendly Places in West Pomerania. One of the key principles of this bike-friendly initiative is to provide cyclists with one-night accommodation during multi-day journeys. Bike-friendly places also include restaurants and other dining establishments that allow cyclists to leave their bikes with luggage in a visible spot, giving them peace of mind while enjoying a meal. In exchange for joining the program, the West Pomeranian authorities commit to promoting these places in their publications and on the website showcasing Bike-Friendly Places.

Image

Another important requirement is the ability to securely store bikes in a locked space. Cyclists at hotels often have access to a room near the reception, known as a luggage room. Increasingly, accommodations are dedicating separate spaces outside the hotel or guesthouse, such as shelters or garages, specifically for cyclists. These spaces often include charging points for e-bike batteries and tools for performing simple repairs. A nice addition is a place to change clothes, hang wet garments, and sometimes even find basic spare parts available for purchase at a reasonable price.

Image

A forest interlude in the Goleniów Forest

Between the sections along Szczecin Lagoon and Lake Dąbie, we pass through the Goleniów Forest for about an hour, or more precisely, its outskirts. It’s a perfect break, as this is one of the last areas along the route where you can enjoy the pleasant, gently rolling terrain, perfect for cycling. The forest paths of the Goleniów Forest lead us to more flood embankments, this time along the Ina River, which we follow toward the northern part of Lake Dąbie. Here, we cross the long Ina River bridge, which offers a great view and gives an idea of how this area must look in spring. Then, it’s back to long stretches of gravel, this time along the shores of Lake Dąbie.

Image

Different ways to tackle the route

Riding at a leisurely, tourist-friendly pace, the 300 kilometers around Szczecin Lagoon and Lake Dąbie can be completed in 4-5 days, making it a perfect option for a longer spring holiday or half of a two-week summer vacation. By picking up the pace and skipping some sightseeing, the Szczecin Lagoon Cycle Route can be done in 3 days or less. And with the convenient year-round train connection to Świnoujście, which is roughly halfway along the route, you can split the ride into two trips at a relaxed pace, fitting them into any weekend throughout the year.

Image

For those who prefer shorter distances, the eastern part of the route can be divided into one-day trips. The segments from Szczecin to Goleniów, Goleniów to Wolin, and Wolin to Świnoujście are particularly notable, as they follow the regional rail line from Szczecin to Świnoujście, running almost parallel to the bike route. However, it’s worth considering taking these day trips outside of the busy summer season, such as in spring or autumn, to avoid the crowds and extend the cycling season. West Pomerania has recently introduced new trains with large bike compartments – maybe they’ll take you to Świnoujście?

Image

Blue Velo, the Oder-Neisse route, and Berlin-Usedom

Riding along the long stretches of the route near Szczecin Lagoon and Lake Dąbie, it’s easy to forget that we’re also following sections of river-based routes. The entire eastern part of the Szczecin Lagoon Cycle Route runs alongside the Blue Velo route, which leads south to places like Gryfino and Trzcińsko-Zdrój, where old railway lines have been converted into bike trails. On the German side, just after crossing the border, the Szczecin Lagoon route connects with the Oder-Neisse route, continuing together all the way to the Baltic Sea. The same goes for the popular Berlin-Usedom route, although it only meets the Lagoon near Ueckermünde.

Image

Safety, comfort, nature, and interesting places

These are the words that should sum up every bike route we encounter. After all, this is what accessible cycling tourism is all about – exploring the world actively in safe and pleasant conditions while enjoying the outdoors. The Szczecin Lagoon Cycle Route checks all these boxes perfectly. It’s very safe, it’s comfortable, though not overly so, and amidst long stretches of natural beauty, there are places with interesting stories to tell. Truly an excellent choice for your next cycling adventure.